A few years ago, after my husband, Richard, passed away, I moved from Montecito to the village of Meursault, France, to be near my son and his family. Meursault is home to some 80 wine-growing families and known for its charm and its terroir. The unique blend of soil and climate has been producing exceptional white (Chardonnay) and red (Pinot Noir) grapes for centuries.
There are three coveted invitations to events that take place every year during the third week of November (after harvest) in this part of Burgundy: The "vente des vins des Hospices de Beaune," centered around the world’s most famous wine charity auction (dating back to 1859) held at the spectacular Hotel-Dieu (which itself dates back to 1443). Then there are the two extravagant luncheons of la Paulée de Beaune and la Paulée de Meursault, both of which are celebrations of the fine wines of the area.
Several weeks ago (November 18), I was privileged to attend the 91st celebration of la Paulée de Meursault. My husband and I had heard from our family about this festive celebration since our daughter and son-in-law moved to France 15 years ago to work in wine. We babysat for their children when they attended the fête as employees of two prestigious wineries here, Domaine Roulot and Domaine De Montille. We never imagined we would one day attend la Paulée.
My invitation came from Monsieur Philippe Ballot, who has been organizing the event for decades. He had appreciated the stories I'd written about Meursault and Burgundy for The Spectator and other publications. I was seated with my family at the table of their friends, François and Frédérique Buisson, who produce fine wines at Domaine Buisson-Battault. François brought a '69 Premier Cru Genevrière, a Pinot Noir, especially for my son-in-law, Brian, as that is his birth year.
The exceptional wines included a Meursault Village, '90's jéroboam of Chardonnay that seemed to draw a lot of interest. I now drink mainly crément and champagne but must point out an exceptional 2019 Clos de Mon Plaisir from Domaine Roulot that sells for several 100 euro that I had no problem sipping during the six courses.
One normally sniffs the bouquet poured from the hundreds of bottles that never stop coming and spits out the wine into a communal bucket. The Scottish lady in me, however, has trouble spitting out expensive wine.
The 800 attendees were served a sumptuous six-course menu of Foie gras et son coulis de betteraves rouges; Noix de Saint-Jacques juste poëlées aux jeunes pousses (divine!); Pavé de sandre grillé à la l'eau á l'huile vierge; Filet de Charolais et sa réduction de Volnay Santenots, pomme confites en éventail et petits croquants; Fromages affinés de la région; Millefeuille caramélisé golden juste poêlées, caramel déglacé au beurre salé, gelée à la passion, all created by renowned chef Dominique Dansard and his brigade.
How did I ever manage to enjoy, let alone eat such a menu? One tastes and leaves much on one's plate. But I did eat all the Saint-Jacques, as I adore scallops. And ate most of the dessert, as I have a shameless sweet tooth. A bottle of champagne (sorry, don't recall the domaine) magically appeared for dessert.
Much of the conversation was around wine, although, I did chat with my table mates about the food, especially as some are very good cooks. And fashion with the ladies. French women, and some men, still really know how to put it together.
Avoiding Mixing Wine with Politics
We were serenaded by Les Joyeux Bourguignons, and the surprise presence of British actor, Dominic West did add to the ambience. I, personally, thought his role as Charles in “The Crown” was excellent, although someone said Dominic himself was not pleased with his role. Americans may remember him from the Showtime series “The Affair” in which he co-starred with Ruth Wilson.
This year's lauréat du prix de la Paulée, David Foenkinos, a Parisian writer, playwright, and historian, known particularly for his best-selling romantic and historically based novels, added to the unique ambiance with his enjoyable and amusing acceptance speech.
My one hesitation, besides sitting for a six-hour banquet, was the possibility that someone would ask my thoughts on the American elections. Would I feel it necessary to defend President-elect Trump and his policies, as I have had to do too often since the election?
Would my French be adequate to explain why I voted for Trump? Would it be worthwhile to try to explain why he won and to point out that even Europe is fed up with the radical leftward political drift and that most French just want what most Americans want: affordable food (and wine), safety, and good education for their children.
I prepared myself – just in case – by remembering what I told a French anti-Trumper just a few weeks ago. That I was ecstatic that FOX News had gone international and that I hoped there were bi-lingual French who would tune in to hear what was really happening. French news has mostly taken on the opinions of left-wing publications in France, the U.K., and the U.S., as gospel. At least they've dropped "Orange Man" and silently applaud some of Trump's proposed team. Although, one smirking TV host, stupidly called Trump's picks more made-for-TV than making America work again.
Luckily, the feast was all about some of the finer things the French have to offer, such as wine, food, and fashion. I would not get indigestion from having to defend America.
Today, I am wondering, however, had la Paulée taken place a few days later as Sweden, Norway, Denmark, and Finland sent out pamphlets to their citizens about how to prepare themselves for nuclear war with Russia, would the ambience of a century-old tradition have been as deliciously joyful?
Interesting view of America from French media. The Western Europe I lived in the 1970s pre-fall of the wall, no longer exists. However, the propaganda fed there has not reached much of Eastern Europe. One of my family member in laws told me on a visit to Slovakia how much he admired Trump. That attitude reflects that of many of my large family living in the city of Košice. Will Europe’s hedonism run its course or will this decadence prevail? Hard to say.
Thanks for the fun story of your wine experience in France. Pinot Noir started out as my favorite wine during my younger years. I didn't realize Trump was referred to as the "Orange Man." Learn something new every day. For whatever reason, I rarely sip on anything alcohol, but a taste of pinot noir sounds good right now.