This week, in wine-growing France, from Bordeaux to Burgundy and beyond, grape pickers are out in force, swarming vineyards like ants to bring in the earliest harvest in 500 years. Here in Meursault, where I now live, the vendanges began on Monday, the 17th of August. Last year, they began at the end of August.
To say there has been much anguish in Franc…